Basics
A Fun Guide to Climbing Holds and How to Grip Them
Apr 23, 2025
Get to know the colorful shapes on the wall and the unique ways your hands learn to hang on.
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Ever wonder why some climbing holds feel like jugs and others feel like they're trying to throw you off the wall?
Climbing is more than just brute strength—it’s about technique, finger control, and understanding how to grip different types of holds. Whether you’re new to bouldering or looking to up your game, knowing the names and grip styles can help you climb smarter, not harder.
Let’s break down the main types of climbing holds, how to recognize them, and the grip techniques you'll need to conquer them.
🟢 1. Jugs – Your Best Friend on the Wall
What they are:
Big, deep, and super-friendly. Jugs are the easiest holds to grab—perfect for beginners and for resting on harder routes.
How to grip:
Wrap your fingers around the hold like a handle. Full-hand grip, thumbs included. Smile while you're at it.
🔵 2. Crimps – Small But Mighty
What they are:
Tiny edges that only allow your fingertips to rest on them. Crimps are the building blocks of finger strength and precision.
How to grip:
Open Crimp: Fingers bent slightly, thumb relaxed. Safer for your joints.
Closed Crimp: Fingers curled tightly, thumb over your index finger for extra pressure. Powerful but risky—use with care!
🔴 3. Slopers – Gravity’s Playground
What they are:
Round, slopey holds with no clear edge. You can’t grab them—you press and smear.
How to grip:
Use open-hand pressure with as much surface contact as possible—palms, fingers, even part of your wrist. Stay low and trust your feet!
🟡 4. Pinches – Squeeze to Stay On
What they are:
Holds shaped like vertical blocks or blobs that need to be squeezed between your thumb and fingers.
How to grip:
Thumb on one side, fingers on the other. Engage your forearms and keep tension through your body.
🟣 5. Pockets – Fingers Go Deep
What they are:
Holds with holes that fit one, two, or three fingers. Common in limestone routes and some indoor problems.
How to grip:
Insert the designated number of fingers and pull with control. Avoid cranking too hard—especially on mono pockets (just one finger). Tendon care is real!
⚫ 6. Volumes – Big, Bold, and Often Tricky
What they are:
Large geometric features bolted to the wall to change the shape of the climb. Volumes can host other holds or be used on their own.
How to grip:
Depends on the surface—sometimes you press, sometimes you mantle (like getting out of a pool), or even stand and balance on them. Volumes reward creativity.
🟠 7. Rails and Ledges – Long and Horizontal
What they are:
Long edges you can match hands on. Think of them like balance beams for your hands.
How to grip:
Use an open hand or light crimp, sometimes with a thumb catch underneath. Great for traverses or setting up powerful moves.
⚪ 8. Underclings, Sidepulls, and Gastons – It’s All About Direction
These aren’t defined by the shape of the hold, but how you grip them based on body position:
Underclings: Grip from below and pull upwards—requires strong feet and core.
Sidepulls: Hold is sideways, so you pull laterally while pressing with your feet.
Gastons: Like a sidepull, but pushing outward with your elbow flared like you’re opening a sliding door.
Learning to read these directional grips changes how you approach every route.
Final Thoughts: Know Your Holds, Climb Better
Climbing isn’t just about pulling—it’s about gripping with intention. Each hold has its own personality, and once you learn how to interact with them, your climbing will become smoother, smarter, and more fun.
So next time you're on the wall at Boulder Box Saigon, try identifying the types of holds you're using. Are you pinching? Crimping? Smeeeearing? (Hello, slopers!)
Understanding your grip game is one more way to level up—and hey, it also makes for great conversation at the lounge when your hands need a break.
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